This brazed "booger" was one of the few attachments holding in the left front fender apron once all the undercoating was removed. Not a good sign. |
Two more brazing boogers. |
After grinding through about six braze boogers, the left front apron was out! |
Left apron flange showing absolutely no weld contact along the entire flange. |
Same story on the rad support where the apron meets it. |
Left apron out without much fuss. |
Fortunately, the flanges were in good shape and smoothed up nicely with only a little disc work. |
Sand blasted the flanges and they look great! |
New left apron spotted in. |
Identifying spot welds on the right front apron connection to the rad support. |
Identifying spot welds on the right front apron connection to the shock tower. |
Identifying spot welds on the right front apron connection to the frame rail. |
Right front apron separated from the rad support. |
Note the scribed line just under the top flange. This is where I will trim the panel to and match the new apron to it. |
Here is the new panel trimmed to match the original top rail. |
Repair panels are rarely a "use-out-of-the-box" part and a little trimming and fitting is often required. Here, I have marked the rear corner for trimming along with the frame hole. |
More trimming required. Also, panel clamps are now in position to maintain proper welding gap at the top. These panel clamps by Dagger Tools are great for doing this kind of delicate work. |
The gap looks huge in this pic but the truth is it is only about .040". |
Flanges have been sand blasted and coated with 3M Weld-Thru primer. |
Panel tacked in. The top seam will essentially be hundreds of tack welds connected together to form a strong joint with little to no distortion. |
First run at smoothing the seams. |
More tacks along the top seam and more metal finishing. Note the consistency in the reflections off of the character lines on the top of the panel. |
Panel is fully welded and metal finished. A skim coat of All-Metal filler will ensure the seem is tight, strong and undetectable. |
Now that the original rad support is no longer needed to align the new aprons, I used my air saw to remove the top section of the rad support in preparation for replacement. |
With the front cross beam and forward strut mounts removed, the new rad support can be trial fit to the chassis. |
With a little careful hammer & dolly work, the fit is excellent. |
Rad support fits the right front very well also. |
In this pic, you can see just how nicely the apron flanges fit the new rad support. |
More evidence of a hard life. This is a pretty significant crack in the left shock tower. To stop the crack, a hole is drilled just outside the end of the crack. |
Here, a die grinder is used to carve a valley directly along the crack to allow good weld penetration all the way through the crack. |
Here, the crack has been filled with weld. |
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