Rage was applied in very thin, smooth layers and block sanded between each coat until any traces of imperfections were gone. This is a very iterative and labor intensive job as the idea is to use as little filler as necessary to get the panel straight before moving on to high build polyester primer and fine finishing putty to get the final shape perfected before applying epoxy primer/sealer. This is the kind of work that requires plenty of patience, rock ‘n roll, and discipline with the sand paper to ensure you don’t gouge the surfaces and thereby create more work for yourself. The key is to refresh the paper on the sanding blocks often and let the sandpaper do the work. Don’t “muscle” it with the idea that you will get done quicker. Ain’t gunna happen that way.With the Rage filler taking care of the vast majority of surface correction, the time came to lock the surface down with a few thin coats of PPG DP40LF epoxy primer mixed as a sealer by adding about 15% reducer to the mix. This would seal up the entire surface of the trunk lid and allow us to finally get a critical eye on the panel surfaces when all in a single color and with a consistent surface. After a solid overnight drying period, we were rewarded with a very straight panel that was ready for the finer detail finishing that high-build poly primer and finishing putty would bring.
With the primed trunk lid surfaces thoroughly dried, the entire surface was treated to a rather aggressive scuff sanding to allow the PPG Shopline JP205 high-build polyester primer to grip the surface as aggressively as possible. JP205 is essentially a “sprayable” and extremely high quality polyester body filler that is applied evenly over the entire surface of a panel and then very carefully block sanded to achieve a laser-straight surface. This stuff might just be the closest thing to magic in a can that you will ever apply to a custom car body surface. With a film build of only about 3 mils per coat, you can very efficiently apply a workable surface to the entire panel that is very easily sanded to virtual perfection in very short time.In our case, we started with two moderate coats of JP205 and allowed this to cure overnight. Then, the panel was carefully block sanded with the longest boards we had to carefully level the surfaces yet again. With the darker DP40LF epoxy primer as a base, it was very evident that we had a few very, very subtle imperfections that we needed to address. And this is where the high-build primer really shines. By using lots of dry guide coat and 120 grit sand paper that was changed often, we were able to hone in on the specific areas that required more attention with extreme accuracy.
A second application of two coats of JP205 was all that was needed to completely eliminate the few remaining hiccups in the surface following a very deliberate and careful sanding exercise. The final finish work was accomplished with a new product from Evercoat called Ever Gold finishing putty. This is a brand new product in the shop and I have to say I absolutely LOVE this stuff. It lays on exceptionally smooth and sands and feathers out to gorgeous finish. This was used to correct the last tiny specks and pinholes that remained in the surface.Finally, the “beauty” surface of the trunk lid was treated to two thin coats of PPG epoxy primer/sealer and allowed to dry for a few days before transitioning to the prep work required on the bottom side of the lid.
The only corrective work required on the bottom trunk lid surfaces was to tidy up the forward flange area that was welded up in the gapping process. This was very easily addressed using the Evercoat Ever Gold finishing putty to smooth the grinding marks and create a flange that is virtually indistinguishable from a factory flange. In fact, unless you followed the modifications here, you would never know the extent of work that had gone into this forward trunk flange.Next, the entire bottom surface was scuff sanded in every nook and cranny in preparation for a few coats of PPG epoxy primer. I really like using the 3M Scotchbrite “red” pads for a lot of this type of work as they are very flexible and durable and provide a great surface for primer without gouging up the metal in the process. Then, the bottom surfaces were thoroughly cleaned and tacked off and two thin coats of PPG epoxy was applied to seal things up. And with that, the trunk lid work was complete and the results look absolutely awesome!
Next up, we started the gapping process on the rear quarter end caps. This is an area where I will divulge a little secret that can make a big difference in how a car is perceived at a show or cruise. More on that in a minute.Quarter end caps are a bit of a love/hate relationship on Mustangs. In the case of the 69-70 body, these caps are die cast alloy and more often than not, do not match the exact contours of the quarter panels they are bolted to. Complicating this is the fact that they can also damage fresh paint on the rear of the quarters if they are tightened down too hard and the factory gasket device is compressed.
Nine times out of ten, the end caps are hard against the rear quarter flanges when mounted to the body, leaving no “gap” at all. I have always found this to look a tick bit odd when all of the panel edges around this part have…..well……gaps. So, to remedy this perceived error (and here’s the secret), I carefully shim the end cap out away from the end of the quarter panel using simple hardware washers until I have a consistent and precise .047” - .050” gap across the entire flange. This subtle modification creates many beneficial features. To start, by creating this thin gap, the need for the rubber “seal” is completely eliminated and the potential to damage the paint as a function of securing the end cap is virtually eliminated. Secondly, moving the end cap slightly rearward on the quarter allows more room to blend the end cap contours into the rear quarter for that extra detail that everyone notices, but rarely can put their finger on. And finally, it allows the rear quarter flanges to be worked perfectly flat to match the end caps with precision and allows the end cap mating edges to be precisely fit to the quarter to give the quarter a cleaner, more flowing line all the way back. The difference is rather striking for such a simple modification.In our next update, we will be finalizing the end cap gaps and machining the final spacers that will be used to maintain these gaps with more durability and precision than the washer stacks will allow. Then we will document the work going in to contouring these caps to perfectly match each quarter for that “super finished” look. Also, we will start cleaning up the lower valence panel end contours and blending them into the lower quarter sections for perfect fit. Lots more to come!
|Sealed up in a few thin coats of PPG epoxy primer/sealer.|
|The PPG epoxy primer was left to cure for a few days and then scuff-sanded in preparation for a few coats of JP205 high build polyester primer.|
|PPG Shopline JP205 high-build polyester primer is essentially a sprayable body filler. This stuff is rather nasty looking when applied but it blocks out beautifully and is a key in getting a panel laser straight.|
|Another look after the first coat of JP205 was blocked down. The back side of the trunk lid was surprisingly straight and required very little work to get dead flat.|
|These thin skims of Ever Gold were all that was needed to correct the sanding scratches and few pinholes we had .|
|Prep work for the second coat of JP205 high-build primer is complete and the panel is being tacked off before spraying.|
|The final coat of JP205 is on and allowed to cure overnight before final block sanding would begin.|
|Here is the trunk lid after final blocking on the JP205 high-build primer. A bit of cleaning and tacking and we are off to epoxy primer/sealer!|
|I went a little bit heavy on the finishing putty to give me plenty of material to work with when sanding this edge to shape.|
|With the welded edge smoothed up, I moved on to scuffing the rest of the surfaces to prep them for primer.|
|PPG epoxy primer fresh out of the gun looks fantastic, even on the bottom of the trunk lid where almost nobody will ever see.|
|Details are everywhere! The modified flange looks like it came straight from the stamping press.|
Quarter Panel End Cap Gapping Begins!
|I try to target a gap of .047" - .050" on the quarter extension/end caps for just the right look.|
|Where the gaps are a bit too wide (or narrow) I mark the amount they need to change directly on the part to allow me to correct it by the exact amount required. In this case, I need to reduce the gap in this area by .020" to match the target gap.|
|Here is a section that will require slightly increasing the gap along a section about 3 inches long.|